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If left for the restoration shop to do—and some will insist on it for continuity and parts-tracking assurance— it can take hours, or more, on a frame-off job, including the time required to bag and tag all the parts that have been removed. Well, maybe better than just good, but not necessarily a show car. Here are five easy ways to overheat your checkbook: 1. Hours and hours and hours of block sanding. Understanding how much of it to commit to your project will give you a better idea of what the bodywork and paintwork will cost. Even if you pay a little more in the long run, the satisfaction of a restoration done right is worth it. It's the part of the project that will reveal the horrors of 50 years of corrosion and hidden collision repairs. At a glance, the dusty, but complete and seemingly solid pony car didn't need much. Unless someone in the shop specializes in resto work, don't do it. Skimping here will affect the quality of the paint job, so make sure the body is as straight as possible. You'll end up disappointed with the results and waste money by starting over at a true resto shop. The shop will have to backtrack their work, often duplicating much of it because of your indecisiveness. Continue Reading.{/INSERTKEYS}{/PARAGRAPH} A restoration represents a huge investment and it's all too easy to burn cash needlessly. Some of the very best, blue ribbon-gathering restorations often consume 1, hours or more in the bodywork, paintwork, and color sanding, though many enthusiasts have had excellent bodywork and paintwork accomplished for far less. It's the only level of work I do, so customers have to understand that when they bring their car to me or Roman. Most of it comes in the form of prep work, including bodywork to straighten and repair the sheetmetal, block sanding the body before painting, and color sanding it afterward to achieve a deep finish. Their expectations and the restorers' often vary, so it's very important to have a very frank discussion about it. It all boils down to one thing: Time. How fast do you want to go? How shiny do you want it to be? Sure, there were some rust bubbles behind the rear wheel openings and the dings and minor dents that come on a year-old car—even if it had spent more than half of its life off the road—but for someone who hadn't had a muscle car restored before, the bodywork and paint estimate was a shock. Yes, a body-on re-spray can get by without media blasting, but several hours will still be spent sanding down the existing finish. Additionally, there are plenty of excellent paint materials out there that cost significantly less than the materials Bobby uses, which can save perhaps a few thousand dollars—but make no mistake: Automotive paint is not inexpensive. Every owner should expect the unexpected, too, when the body returns from the stripper. COLOR SANDING Similar to block sanding, a hundred hours or more can easily be spent on the highest levels of color sanding, in order to knock down the orange peel of the paint and achieve a deeper appearance to the finish. That's not chump change, but it should not be the determining factor for selecting a restorer. We've broken down the basics here, with the caveat, of course, that every project differs and the hours involved can vary significantly, as can labor rates, but this offers a primer on what the shop will do with your vehicle and how each step contributes to the cost. In some cases, it may even be more efficient to do a full panel replacement than repair the existing rust or other damage. Start with a total rust bucket There's an undeniable emotional connection with cars, but unless you're starting with your long-lost Super Bee that was just pulled from a farmer's field, be realistic about your project car's needs. It adds up quickly. See the December issue for an in-depth look at what's involved with block sanding. The trade-off, compared to the concours cars, is obviously less time spent on surface prep and color sanding, making it all the more important to understand restorers' ranges of approaches to their work and discussing what's right for your own vehicle. {PARAGRAPH}{INSERTKEYS}Why does bodywork and painting cost so much? That means adjusting the body panels to achieve more even gaps, while also ensuring the body lines are in much better alignment than when they left the factory. Doing it properly involves more than simply painting the door jambs; and in the case of many Mopars and Fords, it includes the engine compartment. Sticking with the original color, even if it's not your favorite, is much cheaper. Change course midstream If you originally sent your car in for a simple respray, but later decide on the frame-off restoration, you'll be able to feel the heat from your redlined credit card through your wallet. Restorer Nyle Wing, whose work has been featured previously in HMM, says that he might have upwards of hours into the body surface prep for his show-winning restorations, with only another eight or so invested in actually spraying the paint. Do your homework to make sure the shop does the caliber of work you want and that your car won't languish in the back corner for five years. That's hours of bodywork and block sanding. I just wanted it to look good. Collision shops may be great at pulling out dents and matching factory paint after a fender-bender, but they're not likely to spend hours block sanding your car. Laying down the color requires the least amount of time in the project; and, unless you're taking the car to a splash-and-dash paint shop that may or may not mask off the fender badges, it typically takes hundreds of hours to do correctly. Think of it as a twist on that old adage, "Speed is just a question of money. The hours will rack up exponentially, so make your decision up front and stick with it. It's important to ask a shop how far they take their best paint jobs, whether they're willing to do something less to meet your budget, and, if so, what would that level of work include. The color sanding tacks on even more. The frustrating thing is, the vast majority of enthusiasts simply don't have cars restored often, so it's difficult to gauge estimates and the degree of quality restorers will deliver. How shiny do you want your paint finish? Two or three gallons of material may be used, costing several hundred dollars or more, per gallon. That can consume perhaps hours after the paint has been applied. PAINTING Surprisingly, painting involves some of the fewest hours of the project, as the majority is all in getting the body prepped for the color spray. Let a collision shop do the job Restoration shops aren't always easy to find locally and many of the best typically have long waiting lists, so it's tempting to have a collision shop handle the bodywork and paint. We break it down Time is Money By Barry Kluczyk from November issue of Muscle Machines A friend of ours, Jeff Murphy, dragged his unrestored '69 Mustang Mach 1 onto a trailer and sent it off to a restoration shop after it languished in his walk-out basement for the better part of 30 years. It's less time on a frame-on respray, but time nonetheless. Admittedly, he works at the high end of the business, focusing on cars that contend with the best restorations in the country. Serious rust issues require serious labor, so you're better off spending a few thousand more for a better-condition project car. You'll save more in the long run. Total labor hours in the to hours range is reasonable for a non-concours job, which puts our friend Jeff's estimate for his Mach 1 right in the ballpark. BODY REPAIR This is perhaps the biggest variable, because every vehicle's needs are different, but it's safe to say almost every vintage muscle car will have at least some measure of rust or previous accident damage to contend with by the restoration shop. As such, it's difficult to assign an estimate on the body work, but it can range from a few dozen hours on an essentially perfect body, to hundreds on a rust bucket.